Centuries ago, before there was a country called France, this part of Europe was called Gaul. The spot that is now Lyon was important back then because it is at the point where two navigable rivers meet, the Saone and the Rhone. The French Alps are to the east, and it was not too far from the sea. There was no Paris. It was an important trading point for the tribes who occupied the Gaul area. They called it called Lugdunon (Lug = Crow and dunos = Hill). The Romans arrived in their quest to conquer the world in about 43 BC and shortened the name to Lug. Time brought about renaming and new pronunciations finally the name Lyon came out in the wash. It does not mean Lion.
The Romans built their city on the hill of Fourviere; its greatest landmark today is the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere. Like the Sacre Coeur in Paris, the Notre-Dame de Fourviere sits on the highest point of the city and is the unmistakable focal point from almost any vantage point below. Of course, the church we see today is not part of the city the Romans built, but it was the most important site of the Roman settlement and the roots of the city of Lyon. Relics of the first century on Fourviere hill are the darkened stone walls of two Roman amphitheaters. The Lugdunum amphitheater is the oldest and largest amphitheater from Roman Gaul. By the end of the 2nd century, it could hold 10,000 people. Seventeen hundred years later, the stone seating was rebuilt, and later a stage was added so that today, 10,000 people can once sgain enjoy plays and concerts there. Just steps away is evidence of another amphitheater, the Odeon. This smaller amphitheater, built about the same time, was a more intimate place for plays, speeches, and meetings. Before being saved, both amphitheaters were used as quarries and nearly forgotten.
La Basilique – Notre-Dame de Fourvierre was built between 1872 and 1896. The church impressively dominates the city. Built with private funds, the church is a stunning example of architecture and art. Its interior is more impressive than the Paris’ Notre Dame. Though not as large, it is far grander. The massive columns that support the ribbed arched ceiling are pure polished marble and the highly decorated chapel frescos are gilded with gold. It is magnificent!
Another spectacular church is the Cathedral Saint-Jean Baptist. This amazing structure was begun in 1180 and completed in 1476. . . ancient, almost 600 years old. Inside the church is the Lyon Astronomical Clock from the 13 century. It is an artistic, clock-maker’s masterpiece. We timed our second visit to the church precisely to see the clock in action at its noon-day strike. We positioned ourselves to get a great video of all the mechanical movements and waited. So did a lot of other people. Noon came and went, and still we waited. Although the 700-year-old clock diligently does its job on the hour, it did not that day. The clock was vandalized in 2013 by a man who said it interfered with concentrated prayer. The repair was finally completed in 2024 but apparently, there is more work to be done.
Our apartment is in Vennisieux, a close-in residential suburb but Lyon is easily reached with the city’s Metro/Tram/Bus system. Before arriving here, I had my mind made up that I would not like Lyon as much as Dijon and at first it appeared that would be the case, but as we neared the city, that changed. There, standing before us on the banks of the great river Rhone, Lyon was laid out a painting. This lovely historic city expands far to the east and far to the west. It rises in a gentle slope from the large peninsula between the Rhone and the Saone, upward to Fourviere Hill. And atop the hill, as if floating down from the clouds, the Basilica de Notre-Dame draws the eye like a beacon.
Our expectations were damp because our 3-hour drive from Dijon to Lyon was a nightmare. I have told myself many times to avoid setting myself up for disappointment but I did it again. I boasted about having a BMW instead of our usual tiny car-car. That hybrid BMW died. It lost power on a toll road about 50 miles from Lyon. We called the Avis helpline. They sent a tow truck. We and the car were delivered to a garage in Macon, France. All this was on a Saturday mind you – a day on which very little is open after noon. At this point, all was looking pretty good; our wait for the tow truck was just over 30 minutes; Avis seemed to be helpful–at least in those calls when we reached an English speaking representative. Without a doubt, the broken BWM was disappointing but things were looking up.
Avis’s helpline called a taxi to get us to the nearest Avis office where we were promised another car. . . the nearest agency happened to be in Lyon. After three hours standing in the parking lot of the closed garage in the sun, a driver finally showed up. Avis paid 130 euros for the taxi trip to Lyon, but we had to pay an extra 250 euros in cash to engage the driver. It just didn’t feel right, but we had no choice. He had a written order and a receipt. Thankfully we had the cash on us. Resigned, we remained positive that things would all work out.
The drive to Lyon was a long one on that hot day in an unmarked, unairconditioned taxi. We were still wondering if we were being bamboozled.
We arrived at the rental car office 15 minutes before the 5 pm closing time. While Stan and I felt stressed and a little ill, it must have been an equally bad day for the associate who had to deal with us at closing time!! After a very long time, he finally got the details worked out and arranged a car for us. No car in our rental class was available, but at least we were given a car. The poor rep told us we could make an exchange at the airport the next day. Bum! Lost that day. No matter, we took the car, found our apartment, and fell apart. At this point, we could only laugh!
We will submit claims for the extra 250 euros and the many international calls we had to make, and as our frieind Mary might advise, we should seek compensation.
It was well into the evening when we finally settled in. I made an omelet for dinner that night because we had eggs and cheese left over from our place in Dijon. The next day Stan and I drove to the airport, got a new car, and ate Indian food at a neighborhood cafe because everything in non-high-tourist areas is closed on Sundays. Plus it was Mother’s Day in France. The food was good but, bum, I mean bum, the airport/car exchange consumed another day.
These things happen. Not very often but when they do we tend to think we are being persecuted.
The city of Lyon is indeed gorgeous! The most spectacular and interesting spots are naturally, the Notre Dame de Saint Jean Baptiste and the ancient Roman Lugdunam amphitheater. A funicular takes visitors up the hill to see them and enjoythe broad view of today’s modern Lyon.
jOne of the most impressive parts of town is Place des Terreaaux. With the stately 17th-century Hotel de Ville de Lyon (city hall), as a backdrop, the knee-dropping and commanding Bartholdi Fountain spews water from its dark and luminous lead-sculptured horses. This massive and stunning fountain was originally commissioned by the city of Bordeaux. Frederic Bartholdi, the maker of the Statue of Liberty, won the contest to build the fountain. When Bordeaux leaders finally deemed the project too expensive, Lyon took over the grand undertaking and unveiled the masterful piece of art as part of Exposition Universelle 1889.
Another iconic and historic site is the Hotel-Dieu de Lyon (hotel of God). This long building with its great black domes stretches over 1300 feet along the bank of the Rhone. At one glance, you know the building must have had great importance. The complex was first a meeting place and refuge for traveling and local clergy in the 12th century. With many expansions, it became a hospital in 1454 and remained such until 2010. Today it is a grandiose, high-end shopping and dining facility and is occupied by the very stylish InterContinental Lyon Hotel Dieu.
While it may seem Lyon is another city that thrives from tourism; it is not. From its beginning, this place was an early hub for trading. At one time it was the heart of Europe’s silk manufacturing and trade.
iToday, Lyon is ranked 17th worldwide for business value. It excels in banking, chemical, pharmaceutical, and biotech industries, and it boasts 15 universities with 200,000 students within its metropolis.
Lyon is an impressive industrial city, the third largest city in France. It has longevity and depth in today’s economy, but its preserved historical sights are lovely, getting around is easy, the food served here is magnifique, and best of all, it is so very French! Bravo to Lyon!
