Roman Day Trips

Isn’t the name Tivoli inviting?  It’s worth a day trip, we thought.  An easy one-hour train ride through pretty farmland and scenery in the Lazio district took us there.  Soon after arriving, we recognized that this town is special.  First, founded in 1215 BC, Tivoli is 500years older than Rome. These places in Italy are very old, Old Testament old.  Just after leaving the train station, we found the entrance to Parco Villa Gregoriana, where a path winds through a thick hillside forest, above gentle cascades, and raging, crashing waterfalls of the Aniene River.  Along the park’s deep gorge are the ruins of a once elaborate 2nd-century AD Vopiscu Villa carved and built into thick tuff walls. It’s cave-like rooms, and the caves of Neptune and the Sirens are still there.  High above, at city level, is the Roman Temple of Vesta and the nearby Temple of Sybil, built in the 1st century BC.  The park exists primarily as a result of an interruption to nature in the early 1800s. Through the ages, the Aniene River flowed through the town, sometimes causing floods and disasters. In 1826, it washed away much of Tivoli’s oldest sections. The Papal State, led by Pope Gregorio, ordered a project to divert the river underground, which ultimately created a powerful and beautiful waterfall. Not only was the old city saved, but the area with its woodland paths, caves, ravines, waterfalls, and archaeological ruins became the beautiful Tivoli park named after the Pope who saved it.

Stan and I strolled in this curious, ancient, once strategic town with its shops and restaurants on tiny cobblestone alleys and wondered, since the town is more than 3,000 years old, what is modern life like for those who live here today. 

We discovered there is much more to be explored in this town. We only scratched the surface of this UNESCO-designated, beautiful cliff-side, historical town and its ancient architectural artifacts.  But, for us, that’s a wrap!

We read about other ancient towns – there are so many here.  But Orvieto and Bagnoregio captured our interest.  Rather than doing this one on our own, we signed up for a tour that would not only take us there but also guide us and pass along key information along the way.  Note, sometimes, especially in the past, information shared on tours was not so valid or interesting, but nowadays, most tour guides are college-educated and are certified to guide in specified areas. 

This was a good one.  It was a very long day, but the tour was worth it.  Orvieto is in the heart of Tuscany, and it is one of many villages built on a hilltop.  Hilltop locations were chosen for defense.  Two and three thousand years ago, a town was like a country.  Being invaded by a nearby town or foreign empire was not a matter of “if” but “when.” Cities on a hill gave residents visibility and provided obstacles to marauding invaders.  It also created a need for creative water supply means.  Very early, water was brought to the hilltop village by mules or donkeys.  Later, when that simply was not adequate, towns like Orvieto dug deep wells and aqueducts.  St. Patrick’s well, commissioned in 1527, was dug 175 feet deep, and its elaborate tunnel system provided a reliable source until the 20^th century.  Perhaps it was built and settled for defense; today, these hilltop towns are a heavenly, splendid sight set on a backdrop of a valley of gray olive trees and brilliant green fields on the horizon. 

From Orvieto, we lunched at a family-owned and operated farm and winery dating back to the 17^th century.  Famous for serving nothing but foods they produce, we tasted pesto, salami, truffle cheeses, and wines, topped by pasta, just made by the mama that morning. 

On we went to Civita di Bagnoregio, the dying city.  The Civita was founded 2500 years ago and became renowned as a place for trade and probably more, because of a miracle witnessed by Saint Bonaventure, who died in 1274.   Hmmm, that’s another story.  Earthquakes and erosion have left the city on an earthen pedestal.  Due to its unstable, constantly eroding stone foundation, the city is no longer occupied except by only 13 people.  To walk the tiny streets of this charming place, witness its glorious views, and perhaps have a caffe or a meal, you must walk a long downhill and then a steep uphill toll footpath to the city.  Due to the number of visitors who buy a ticket and thus pay the toll, the Civita and nearby Bagnoregio are the only towns in Italy without communal taxes. 

The remains of the Civita are old, charming, romantic, and simply gorgeous!  Oh, to spend a night here!  Imagine the stars! 

What’s next?  We think there will be more day trips, but first, we are going to the opera.  Stan refused when I first asked if he’d join me, but when I reminded him that for his birthday one year, I took him to Daytona for a NASCAR race, he begrudgingly said, Ok.  

We cannot attend an opera at the grand Teatro di Roma because the performances this month are “The Nutcracker.”  But we will see Verdi’s “La Traviata” at the beautiful “American” church in Rome. 

My first opera, and in Roma, no less!