Paraguay, a Place Becoming

There are fabulous restaurants and a handful of luxurious hotels here especially in Asuncion, but is Paraguay a place that people who only travel in luxurious style might seek?  Is it a place where visitors can stroll down famous boulevards and take photos at the foot of famous monuments?  Is it a place to pick up a bag from Hermes or Channel?   No, but it may someday.  It is a place in the process of becoming. 

Paraguay is a lovely, developing country with frequently found powerful Wi-Fi, a complicated history, surprisingly delicious food at even more surprisingly low costs, and some of the friendliest, most welcoming people we have ever met.

Once you get used to sidewalks that are like mine-fields all broken up and tempting a fall resulting in a knocked out tooth, busted lip, or at least scraped chin, and once you get over the fact that so many once wonderful plazas and monuments are being sadly neglected, you can begin to see Asuncion’s beauty. There are lovely museums cared for supported by wealthy friend groups and old historical monuments and sites worth visiting. The winding Parana and Paraguay Rivers form a bay that is not only lovely to see and walk along but also is a nature home to many birds and wildlife just steps from the city center. Across that waterway is the entry to Chaco lands and the country of Argentina. Despite a lot of poverty-filled areas, there are lovely neighborhoods, even fabulous ones, but unfortunately, I know of no place on earth with a different story. In short, Asuncion is a very pretty city.  It is green, gloriously green!  And even though it is late winter now, flowers are abundant, and birds’ songs fill the air. One bird we cannot see or identify calls early in the morning and sounds like a laser gun, pew-pew!!

Paraguay is safe, but as in any place on this planet, you must watch yourself and your stuff.  In our three-month stay, we did not encounter one moment of fear or concern . . . except for that time we were stopped by the young motorcycle cop . . . that bad apple! 

With just a few more days here we are trying to make sure we see everything we should, taste everything we should, and say good-bye to the friends we have made here. 

Speaking of friends, we met David on our first full day here on a walking tour.  As we got to know each other, we were amazed to learn that not only were we living in the same apartment building in Asuncion but also on the same floor. He is building up an online business consulting firm here and has since moved from our building to a house, a more permanent location here in Asuncion.  Though we are no longer neighbors, we remain in touch.  We shared a few outings and meals with him.  And because he does not cook much himself, David knows all the good places to eat near us.  

We spent a month here before we found a church with services in English, San Andres, our tiny house chapel.  It was worth the wait.  Every Sunday we leave feeling refreshed, restored, and reassured in our faith.  Plus, we have met so many people.  Our pastor, Archbishop Venables, is a little older than we are but he delivers the Word, not so much like a preacher but in the manner a good teacher might.  He and his wife of 55 years originally from England, have lived in many countries and traveled the world.  Since some of their children now have spouses and children here in Paraguay, Paraguay is their forever home now.  Pastor Venables’ long tenure in the ministry and his distinctive English accent enable his direct and meaningful sermon delivery.  He has a way of making direct eye contact with people in the pews when he wants to make a point.  Sometimes it seems he squarely looks at me and leans over a bit. Instinctively I feel his words are directed specifically at me, especially when he peers with his dark eyes and says, “Do you get it?”   

I get it. 

The people in this church are a kind and varied group from all over the world.  We have become long-lasting friends with Ana and Rex. They are the ones who took us to Paulista Grill, the Brazilian steakhouse with the Paraguayan rock stars playing guitar and harp.  While David knows all the delicious places to eat near us, Ana and Rex know all the first-rate places to dine in Asuncion.  We have checked them all . . . La Cabrera for amazing steak where the take-home leftovers lasted a full week, and to Xumaq Concina Peruna where Stan and I started our seafood meal that night with some of the best ceviche we have had since visiting Lima, Peru a few years ago.  Not all our great dining experiences came from recommendations; we found a few ourselves, like one of the most popular downtown restaurants, the Lido Bar, Bar San Roque, the oldest restaurant in Asuncion, and Bolsi another longtime establishment, all perfectly fabulous Paraguan fare. And how could we forget the buffet at Supermercardo Real where we got generous lunches of hot, homestyle Paraguayan food a mama might make, and a soft drink for less than $10 total . . . or how about our go-to place for the best empanadas in town (Don Vito brand), at Biggies, the souped-up convenience store one block from our house. A lot of people won’t buy Don Vito empanadas. Even though they are the best, the company is owned by the former president, Horatio Cartes, known to be among the country’s most corrupt politicians.

Our most enjoyable dinner, however, was at Ana and Rex’s home.  Ana likes to put people together who might have much in common.  She invited us to have dinner with them where we were joined by Jordan and Sarah, a young American couple who also attend our church and both work for the United States Embassy here.  Ana thought we two couples might have wonderful conversations since we all are so well-traveled.  I was not interested in their travels nearly as much as I was curious about their work at the embassy. 

Ana and Rex’s house blew me away.  UBER dropped us off at their simple but elegant wrought iron gate set in the tall wall surrounding the property.  We rang the bell.  The gate buzzed and opened.  As we entered their lovely small but well-tended garden entry, in front of us, the door opened to reveal beautiful Ana and her home.  I lost my breath.  This Paraguayan casa is without a doubt, the most stunning home I have ever seen in my entire life.  I sneaked a few photos. The ceilings soared and the open areas went on and on.  Comfy and inviting seating areas were here and there – enough to seat 30 friends and family at once.  The walls were tastefully decorated with family photos, memorabilia, and art. The immense glass wall at the rear of the house extended across its entire width, floor to ceiling, and it overlooked a lighted turquoise pool surrounded by an expansive teak terrace and landscaped tropical garden.  I have been privileged to visit many beautiful privately owned homes in my 77 years, but this was the most grand.  Bravo, Ana and Rex!

I offered to bring a dish to the meal . . . a salad, perhaps?  A side or dessert.  Ana suggested a dessert.  When Stan heard that, he said, “Banana pudding!”  Anyone who knows Stan at all knows banana pudding is his favorite. 

I thought, “I have corn starch that I accidentally purchased thinking it was cornmeal.  I have eggs and milk.  With just a few more ingredients, I can do this. 

A key element to banana pudding is perfectly ripe bananas of course, but also ideal is a bag of Jackson Vanilla Wafers.  Unfortunately, those little miracle cookies are no longer made – much to the dismay of us good Southern cooks.  Nilla Vanilla or even Kroger brand vanilla wafers must substitute these days, but ask anyone south of the Mason-Dixon line, there is nothing like Jackson Vanilla Wafers for the best banana pudding.  In Paraguay, there is nothing with the slightest resemblance to Jackson, Nilla, or even the Walmart brand vanilla wafers here. Stan and I studied the cookie aisle at several supermarkets and settled on three varieties to audition for the job.  We sampled the cookies and settled on one type with a backup.  We ate a lot of cookies.

There is no electric mixer or even a manual beater in our apartment. I put an inexpensive one in our grocery cart because “my” banana pudding needs golden brown meringue.  Stan said, “If I can find a canister of whipped cream, we are putting that thing back.” It did make sense.  Sure enough, he found a can of aerosol whipped cream in the freezer section.  Lord, who knew? 

I worried over that banana pudding; I did.  Would it be too dry, would it be sweet enough?  Will the cookies begin to get a little soft . . . all requisites to success.  I sweated.  But when dessert was served, those three men dived into their dish (we ladies like to be a bit more reserved) and then virtually ran back for a refill until it was gone.  Voila!  Success. 

At home the next day, I had milk, eggs, vanilla, cornstarch, two bananas, and a few cookies left.  Feeling much more confident, I made another small pudding to share with Hugo, the friendly security guard downstairs, and as a thank-you gift for Jordan, who after work at the embassy the next day, delivered Stan’s phone that was accidentally left in his car as he and Sarah drove us home from the dinner that night.  That young man does like his banana pudding! 

It always happens.  Just at the time we need to be thinking about packing and making our way to the next destination, we begin to feel sad about leaving.  What a rich experience!  The people, the food, the history, the beauty, and the hopeful promise found in this unique, land-locked country made us treasure our time here and gave us wonderful memories we will take with us.  We will surely miss this place. 

With a few more days left here for us, this story is not done yet.

Apologies, but get ready for three months of serious food porn.