Manaus, Brazil

More than two million people live here in this year-round sweltering heat, and they love it. They are accustomed to this “tropical climate” near the equator and would not live elsewhere but it was exhausting for us.

Once Brazil ruled the world as the only supplier of rubber; Manaus was its center. The enormous demand for the product at that time created fantastic economic opportunities and attracted many European families. It was the richest city in South America. The tremendous wealth generated during the rubber heyday led to an architectural boom often mimicking the grandeur in Europe. Efforts primarily led by the state’s governor in the late1800s resulted in the construction of a tremendous opera house, plazas and monuments, and the spectacular Teatro Amazonas which is said to have cost $10 million in 1882. Also evident of that more gentile time is the Manaus’ main marketplace, the Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa. This many-pathed bazaar was inspired by the labyrinthed Les Halles in Paris.

Those grand times for Manaus did not last long. Rubber trees were stolen and planted in Malaysia. When they matured, Malaysia offered prices that undercut the prices that Brazil needed. In addition, synthetic rubber emerged leaving Manaus in dire poverty.

In the 1960s a free-trade zone was created bringing in new industries, demographic growth, and renewed prosperity. Manaus has the 6th largest economy in Brazil consisting of oil refining, manufacturing, chemicals, tourism, and yes, Brazil nuts. Even so, the city today has far too many dirty, raged-clothed people fishing for food in trash bins and sleeping on the street and park grounds on cardboard. These are not mentally challenged people who choose to be homeless. These people are destitute.

So why are we here? Manaus is a major departure point for the surrounding Amazon Rainforest. We board a ship later today for three nights in the Amazon. We are excited!

In our short stay here, we made good use of our time, visiting the packed Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa, finding home-cooked Brazillian foods for lunch, making friends, and sharing fun times with our hotel staff and the young concierge at our favorite wine bar at the Hotel Opera. We toured the opulent Gran Teatro Amazonas immaculately preserved despite nearly nightly performances in its 100 years The only change over the years was the addition of air conditioning. The change in humidity precipitated the need for new flooring in some areas and new auditorium seat covers. The art and furnishing are just as they were in 1882. It is spectacular! We bought tickets for a philharmonic symphony performance last night. Ironically, due to a problem with the air conditioning system, the concert had to be canceled. To add to the irony, there was another concert performance for us. A motorcycle club hosted a live band just outside our hotel. We watched for a long while as the rock band played music from the 60’s and 70’s . . . Led Zeppelin, Rolling Stones, Iron Butterfly. No one danced!!! I could not believe it.

While I could hardly recommend a visit here unless you dearly love hot weather or unless you plan a trip up the Amazon or into the Rainforest, we are happy we came and had the opportunity to see this corner of the world.

Teatro Amasonas – The Grand Opera House