Making Good Use of Last Days in Porto

 All the important spots and some not-so-significant spots have been seen and toured.  As finishing touches, we revisited the little fishing town on the beach, San Pedro da Aflurada, to enjoy a bit of peasant sun on the beach reading books, and snoozing  As we made our way back to Gaia stopped at the little fishing village for lunch.  Whoa almost too late.  They stop serving after 2 pm.  Our hours are so messed up!  Still, there are always restaurants that take advantage of people on other time schedules.    We were served grilled fresh calamari and salmon on plates with of bowls roasted potatoes, a lovely salad, and . . . cabbage?  A strange combination we thought but good nonetheless. We are ruined.  Frozen fish will never do from now on.  Fresh fish just caught that same morning is something very special.

We boarded another train to the country’s oldest city, Guimaraes.  The old town, called the “Cradle of Portugal,” is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Portugal.  And above the small old town sector is a palace, Paco dos Duques de Braganca, recreated on the original spot of land to portray what it might have been like back in the 10^th century.  Just steps away from the palace is the Castelo that stands tall over the city much as it did in 1268.  There was no re-creation in the castle.  It is as it was, and it was simply amazing to see and touch and imagine what it might have been like in the 13th century with a village at its foot.

We crossed the river once more on Saturday to Porto to climb the steps of the Igreja e Torre dos Clerigo.  It’s one of the highest points in all of Porto and Gaia.  We can see it from our apartment.  The day was hot!  And the walk to the Church and Tower is long and steep uphill.   After the tower, we stopped for gelato and . . . a macaron.   Now! Now, I understand the fascination with these colorful little delicacies.  I always thought macarons were solely coconut drop cookies.  Macaroons are coconut cookies but macarons are something different.  These little bites are heavenly, light, airy, and sweet creations.  Perfectly round and slowly baked, these tiny brightly colored egg white and almond paste disks surround a filling equally as light.  They melt in the mouth with exploding choices of flavors like pistachio, caramel, strawberry, and more.  I’ve seen expensive gift boxes of macarons sold in boutiques and online at Christmas time, but I never understood the mystique.  I do now. 

Back in the apartment, our clothes were damp and sticky from our long walk and many steps, and it occurred to me, that a lovely cool bath is one of life’s greatest luxuries.

Dancing tonight!

Dinner and entertainment were at Heranca Magna.  Its name interprets as Great Inheritance.  I’d heard and read about Fado music but until last night, I’d never heard it or seen it performed.  I made reservations.  We did not expect a great show or great food as most venues like this are sometimes quite disappointing, or in plain terms, rather lame.

The manager was the first to greet us and he continued to check in with us throughout the evening to make sure we had everything we need and were having a nice evening.  We did!  The food was good with the first course of Port, nice rolls, and Portuguese olives.  Bottles of good wine, both white and red were served.  The main course was a plate of bacalhau (cod) with kale and very tasty herbed potatoes.  Dessert was an ooey-gooey cake with apple poached in Port.  All this was served between performances of talented guitar musicians and lovely classically trained Fado soloists.  No microphone was needed, they could belt out a song!  I now understand Fado.  Then came the 19-member troupe playing, singing, and dancing in old Portuguese traditional style. 

Seeing a performance of Fado is an absolute necessity in Portugal.  We had such great fun!

Fado is typically rural Portuguese music and generally is a sad, mournful song or lament; of course, the ballad is about the life of the poor, loneliness, love or lost love, or bad love, sung in an operatic style and with great emotion.  Fado is absolutely lovely to watch, hear and remember.