Exotic Ancient Egypt

Among all our travels, this area of Egypt is one of the oldest, most intriguing, and authentic historic places we have come to know. I put this visit to Ancient Egypt on par with Angkor Wat and Machu Picchu.

As a preface, Stan and I are not Egyptologists. We found that in a short time, hearing so many names and dates of rulers, their gods, their battles, and their significance formed nonsense in our heads. We did not charge ourselves with memorizing the stories. Instead, we will merely enjoy and wonder at the existence of this advanced civilization and give thanks that much of its evidence lives today.

In busy Cairo, we visited the historic Citadel of Saladin. This place was the seat of government in Egypt and the residence of its rulers from the 13th to the 19th century. In addition to its three mosques, it is home to Egypt’s military museum. 



After accidentally setting our alarm an hour late, we zipped our bags and rushed to the airport. Fortunately, we managed to be on time for our 7 am flight from Cairo to Luxor with enough spare time to brush our teeth near the gate.. The sightseeing tour started immediately upon our arrival in Luxor.

What a way to start an adventure. Ugh! No makeup, no sunscreen, no hat, and blazing hot sun!!! We were just thankful to be there.

Besides the pyramids and the sphinx in Giza, the oldest relics of ancient Egypt, which we visited two years ago, the area from Luxor to Aswan is likely the most important spot for ancient Egyptian antiquities. To set the stage, imagine an advanced civilization existing 5000 years ago.

The River Nile divides Egypt: the West Bank and the East Bank. It is a wide, fresh-looking river that runs south to north. Unlike the Amazon River, the Nile, its water, its banks, and the narrow delta lands are green and lush.

We crossed the river almost immediately. Ancient Egyptians designated the West Bank as the burial land for the Kings and nobility. Here we visited the Valley of the Kings, Temple of Hatshepsut, and Colossi of Memnon, or the colossal colossus. It is recognized by the two huge statues built around 1350 BC as a funerary monument to Pharaoh Amenhotep III. In this vast dusty valley between the hills, Egyptian royalty like Tutankhamun, Ramesses I, II, III, and IV were entombed underground or inside the mountain. Their mummies were hidden away in these tombs for protection from theft and destruction. Encased in a sarcophagus and outer stone casket, mummy kings and their riches lie in highly decorated, multi-chambered tombs for all eternity.

Over the centuries, after the fall of ancient Egyptian society, entrances to some tombs were found and used by invading armies and by Christians as sources of shelter. It wasn’t until 1837 that the first complete discovery was made, and in 1922, in one of the world’s most famous archeological finds, Howard Carter discovered the largely intact tomb of Tutankhamun.

Remarkably and almost unfathomably, in each of the tombs, hieroglyphics and art depicting gods and the life of the entombed king, his queen(s), and children are there in original, brilliantly colored paint and carved detail on the walls, ceilings, and columns. To gaze upon these ancient relics for the first time is staggering.

After the first stop, I was able to retrieve my hat from our bags in the car for the second destination on the West Bank. The heat was like that felt from opening the door to a hot oven. That’s the downside of visiting Egypt in September, it’s hot as all blazes. The upside, though, is that there are no crowds at any important spot.

Our tour host met us for a late lunch and escorted us to our river boat, the Emilio, our home for the next four nights. We were the only Americans on board among twenty other passengers, all from Germany – of course, they were wonderful company, especially Monica & Daniel, and Barbara & Rudiger. The ship’s crew was kind, fun, and helpful!

Bright and early the next morning, we began our exploration of the East Bank, where the ancient Egyptian nobility built temples strictly to honor their gods . . . over 300 of them. Temples were places where rulers and nobles gathered to celebrate the gods with periodic festivals and offerings. The entry to these grand holy halls is often flanked by colossal stone statues of the king, the queen, his representative gods, and sometimes soldiers. At Al Karnak, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest of the temples, there are 67 acres of halls, chapels, temples, and pylons. Because King Ramsses II, who initiated the temple, identified with the god Amun, symbolized by the ram, a 3 km road, the Avenue of the Sphinxes, was built between Karnak and the Luxor Temple, lined on either side with ram statues. Typically, each temple has a long center hall that leads through side chambers to the altar. Common people were allowed only in the outer plaza. Nobility could go inside, but only the king and priests could enter the altar chamber. The walls of each chamber and the hall are decorated with hieroglyphics, and painted, carved images, tall stone statues, and each has many tall columns often topped with the lotus or papyrus flower.

We did not walk the 3 km Avenue of the Sphinxes to the Temple of Luxor, but it was next on our list. This temple was a major religious center in Thebes (now the city of Luxor). It was the main location for the most important religious celebrations.

That evening, our boat sailed south to Edfu, where in the morning we saw the Temple of Horus, the falcon-headed god and son of Isis, and the Temple of Kom Ombo, dedicated to the crocodile god, Sobek. We had time for a little relaxation in the shade on the pool deck. Finally!

The next morning, the boat arrived in Aswan, where we endured the 4-hour drive going and 3-hour return drive through the desert, beginning at 4 am, to see the Abu Simbel Complex. Best known for its tremendously tall architecture, statues, and intricate carvings, this site was well-preserved and worth the visit.

Our cruise wrapped up in Aswan with a visit to Temple of Philae and the Aswan High Dam. By this time, our brains were full of temples, gods, pharaohs, and goddesses. And no matter how astounding, it was difficult to be more impressed. But one notable fact, some temples included such adjunct facilities and coin mints and hospitals for nobility.

In addition to several factors like political instability, foreign invasions, environmental conditions, and theft of building materials, in the 19th century BC, a devastating earthquake toppled many of their great stone walls. Most of the temples in Egypt have been at least partially restored. However, in the town of Edfu, nature long ago covered the Temple of Edfu in sand. Discovered in 1930, this temple stands exactly as it did over 3000 years ago. The statues, the walls, the grand hallway, and its many columns are inscribed and painted as they were put forth by slave laborers, craftsmen, and artists who lived and worked many years in the past. This Temple of Edfu was initiated by Ptolemy II in 237 BC and was finally completed by Ptolemy XII, father to Cleopatra VII – the one who loved and lost Marc Anthony.