Basel at Christmastime

Like frosting on a cake, Basel. Switzerland at Christmastime has been a delectable addition to this six-month journey for us. It was not a planned destination but having the flexibility to change plans on a whim is part of the great fun!

Our original plan included a trip to Jordan after Turkey. We hoped to see Petra, the Dead Sea, and the wealth of archeological sites there. However, state department advice and our instincts told us now is not the time. We could have remained in Mediterranean areas and visited more spots in Egypt; we could have explored nearby Bulgaria, but the prospect of dunking ourselves in the middle of a joyful Christmas scene called to us. We bought new, heavier all-weather jackets, gloves, and a watch cap for Stan and headed to Switzerland.

Having spent the last 12 months in New Zealand, Australia’s Tasmania, and Eastern Europe, the change in environment, architecture, and atmosphere we found in Basel was shocking. The streets are very clean, the buildings look older but well-cared-for. The weather is cloudy and very cold. Most conversations we hear are in French or English, yet streets most often carry German names.

Basel sits across the border of France and Switzerland. Our apartment was on the French side – it was very nice! The Rhine runs through the city. Its roiling waters move cold and swiftly to the sea.

Why Basel?  Years ago, I saw nighttime photos of the Basel Christmas Market.  The lights were subdued because everything was snow-covered.  Tiny wooden shops were decorated with evergreen bows and tiny lights.   I told myself, we are going there someday.  Voila, the opportunity presented itself! 

Basel is everything I dreamed of, except there is no snow on the ground. It snowed on us on our first day but not enough to accumulate. It is cold, though, bitterly cold, especially to us who just a few days ago could walk the beach in a swimsuit. Basel is classic Europe, very sophisticated. This beautiful city has a mixture of German, French, and Swiss well-loved, well-preserved architecture that reflects wealth and quality. Living here is quite expensive but it is very beautiful and quite “civilized.” While living here has great appeal, I could not bear the Swiss winters.

To add to the joy of this glorious town, my friend Barry, whom I last saw 17 years ago in Atlanta, lives here. He was the best hairdresser I had had in my life. He was an artist who understood my dreadful baby-fine hair. Almost twenty years ago, his friend, Charlotte, introduced him to a man who would become the love of his life, a Swiss physician. After a time, they married, and Barry moved to join him in Switzerland. I celebrate his happiness. We met for lunch on our first full day here and it was as if our separation had been only a few months, not years! He and his husband will be in Zurich next week at the same time we will be there. We plan to meet once again.

At this time, Basel is decorated in a deep old-fashioned Christmas style. There is very little glimmer and jazz. Instead, spruce trees with tiny lights are everywhere. Neighborhoods are strung with lights with gently lighted spangled stars hanging in the center of the street. The booths and stalls in the Christmas markets are of native wood covered with evergreens. They sell everything Christmas — miniature carved and painted towns and people in snow scenes, Christmas tree decorations, mittens, hats, candles, jewelry, handmade belts, scarves, candies, sausages, artisan cheeses, stolen and more. Ahhh, baked, fruity stolen dusted in sugar. I will be buying some! It’s Christmas!

Off to Zurich now!