Cappadocia, Turkiye

It was news to me that Turkey is the 4^th most popular tourist destination in the world. Of course, Istanbul is the number one place but there are several other top destinations where people from around the world flock to. One of them is Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in Central Turkey. It has an elevation of 3600 feet above sea level and is best known for its unworldly tall, sometimes mushroom-shaped pillars and cone-shaped rock formations called “fairy chimneys.” The colors of the stone range from pure white to pink and even black. The region with its many valleys is one of the world’s most unique naturally formed places on earth. Looking a little like the Grand Canyon and a little like Bryce Canyon, a visit to Cappadocia (pronounced Cappa-dok-ya) is similar to lands in these parks but vastly different. Walking through the valleys is like visiting another planet.

The creation of these mind-blowing land formations began 60 million years ago from two catastrophic phenomena.  Once this land was under a lake.  Volcanic eruptions from three volcanoes that lasted for years spewed mountains of ash into the lake, so much so that the lake disappeared, and then the compressed ash was covered by layers of lava.  Ash eventually formed soft stone and the lava formed very hard stone. Millions of years of wind and rain erosion wore away any weakened stone and left only tall cones, obelisks, blades, and mysterious rock shapes, i.e., “fair chimneys” that tickle the imagination.  It is unworldly. 

Then beginning in about the 3^rd Century, a Christian community developed in the area.  They realized the soft ash rocks could be carved out to make caves, homes, and religious sanctuaries.  Today the great stone hills are filled with curious carved-out churches, monasteries, sanctuary communities, and even homes.  Today, some people live in cave apartments or underground houses, many of which have been outfitted with modern styling and conveniences.  The Goreme Open Air Museum is the crown jewel of Cappadocian Christianity from the Middle Ages.  It has been meticulously preserved and is filled with domed ceilinged, cross-shaped cave churches, their walls and ceilings still covered with faded-colored biblical frescoes.  Completely jaw-dropping!

If anyone ever asks if we visited Cappadocia, I will say, we sure have.  We walked to the Goreme Open Air Museum on day one here, going both the short, more direct route and then returning home via the 3-mile hike along the highway.  Funny thing about us . . . Stan and I enjoy foraging. I cannot say how many paths we have walked and found blackberries in Portugal, figs in Spain, and pomegranates in Croatia. Even in Turkey, it is late in the season for any produce. But lo and behold, on our hike that morning we passed an apple tree that had just dropped its fruit. We found two apples that were still firm and whole. Crisp! Delicious! Incredible!. Stolen fruit is always the sweetest!

Early the next morning we made a sun-rise hot-air balloon flight that skimmed high and low over broad valleys and more mystical fairy chimneys.  The views were amazing . . . the golden sky from the newly born morning, the magical land below, coupled with a sky full of one hundred other balloons rising up with us made a Heavenly sight! 

And after our balloon flight, per Stan’s suggestion, we walked from our town of Goreme up to the lofty city of Uchisar which sits at the highest point in Cappadocia on a mountain at nearly 4200 feet above sea level.  You can see this high town from any point. It beckoned. The walk was a warm and very steep one.  I was still wearing my clothes from the morning’s early balloon flight . . . sweater, undershirt, etc.  I wore two layers of just about everything because I do not like to be cold.  At one point along the hike, I had to remove a few layers just to continue as I also do not like to be hot.  I took off one pair of socks, one pair of leggings, and a jacket.  I tied the jacket, pants, and socks onto my waist and walked on. At the lookout point in Uchisar, we met three Romanian Greeks, two sisters, and the husband of one. Let me remind you, Stan and I are in each other’s company every moment of every day. Although we still manage to carry on a decent conversation with one another, we relish interaction with others. It’s almost sad how we attack them.

Our shorter but much more treacherous trip back to Goreme was along the hiking trail through Pigeon Valley.  We hiked along a wide beautiful trail that became a little more risky as the steep downhill path became more narrow and filled with ruts. We did ok but missed our hiking poles which we never seem to have when we need them. At the bottom of the hill, we passed a farmhouse with apple trees, turkeys, and geese. We love animals, we talked to them and took their photos.

We wrapped our last day in Cappadocia with a visit to one of the several underground cities here. We had the best guide, Mehmet. We met him on our first day at the Goreme Outdoor Museum and we are glad we did. On our last day tour, he educated us on so much about the area, the Underground City we visited, the Monks Valley, and more. Plus he was just a genuinely nice young man. He is now another of my “sons.”

Used as a means of defense and protection in the Middle Ages, these “city” complexes that were dug into the soft stone underground, had multiple levels with untold rooms for sustaining life for about 2000 people when under siege.  As if modeled after anthills, these miraculous complexes had rooms dug out for storing grain, other foods, and livestock, rooms for grinding grain, cooking, baking, winemaking, sleeping, bathing, and dining connected by tunnels only 4 feet high in some places.  They made holes and tubes for ventilation and communication and could seal off stone passageways with large stones if attacked.  Simply amazing!

Türkiye!! There is so much to see and learn in this country of wildly varied terrains, cityscapes, religions, and cultures.  While we visited Alanya, Kusadasi, Istanbul, and now Cappadocia, there is much, much more.  I hope to return someday. 

Had we been able to follow our original plan we would be moving to Jordan tomorrow.  Sadly for so many reasons that is not possible.  Therefore, we are immersing ourselves in the Christmas spirit by heading to the Christmas Market in Basel, Switzerland.  I am so excited! 

Just one more thing. Is it safe to visit Turkey right now? From our experience in the last few weeks, yes! I have to temper that by saying Stan and I are only visiting places that are on the tourist grid. We feel completely safe walking around, hiking in remote areas, meeting and talking with people, eating at local restaurants, and petting their cats. I’m not sure we are seeing authentic Turkish life in the places we have been, especially in the smaller tourist towns. While people we meet are genuinely friendly and warm . . . we know it is their tremendous tourism industry we are supporting. Even when they learn we are from the United States which could be concerning these days in Muslim countries, they seem to want us to feel happy and welcome. No matter. . . I get the impression that Stan and I have been safe and sincerely welcomed, and would have been even if tourism was not so important. That observation is important!

As of this post, my travel stories are now current!