We vowed not to tour another castle but this magnificent one looked interesting. It is very near to our apartment and is the heart, the focal point of this city. The other day when we walked through the castle gardens, we inquired about visiting. They told us it was too late for an entry that day but we should come back Sunday – the first Sunday of each month has free admission. We typically get excited about free admission!
When we returned on Sunday; the representatives at the desk asked if we had reservations. If not, so sorry then, the castle is full today. Stunned, we offered, “the person earlier in the week suggested we return today. She said nothing about making reservations, and I’d read a good bit about the Chateau; nowhere did anything say that reservations were required for a visit.” Then I threw in, “We are small; we won’t take up much room.” One of the representatives at the desk rattled some papers, smiled, and asked if we could return at 2:15.
Delighted that we were successful in talking our way in, we spent the meantime walking to another site on our list, Les Halles, and had lunch. It was our understanding Les Halles is a marketplace for fresh fruit and vegetables, prime meats, cheeses, and sausages. It is but this place was not a farmers’ market. The meat and cheese offerings in this modern, airy, upscale market were plentiful but the fresh produce was very limited. What kind of market has only two or three produce vendors? No matter, we are in Pau only 8 more days, and could not manage anything fresh anyway. Les Halles also has fancy restaurant stalls offering oysters & shrimp to eat there or to take home. Some stalls offer prepared foods like paella, Vietnamese food, and more. So many people were there. Each stall had a line. Finally, we saw delicious-looking burgers and chose that place. We stood in line and by the time we reached the front, we’d opted for their steak tartare instead. Upon request, they will sear the outside of the seasoned and herbed beef so that it has a slight, crispy crust. It was the best we’ve had since our first taste of steak tartare in Avignon, France ten or so years ago.
Hundreds of people took their meals and drinks outside to a huge covered patio and enjoyed their meal with family and friends while a band played rock and roll. Fun! We just may do this again next Sunday!
The tour of the chateau reinforced our vow to tour no more chateaus, no more palaces, and no more castles. It was guided . . . by a lady who spoke only French. We got it. Henry IV was born here. His cradle was a large tortoise shell. Throughout the chateau, the initials M” and “H” are embedded in the ceiling tiles and wall embellishments as a sign of their devotion. The chateau has served several purposes over its time. She went on and on. The air was close and hot. And the tour was long. I’d picked up a booklet on the chateau written in English so I could read about every room but it was the same red and gold elaborate décor with ancient tapestries and the same old bla-bla-bla dining room seating 100 guests, the throne room, the kitchen, the emperor’s bedroom, etc. Once more we wow, no more.
I did like the tapestries though. They were authentic and at least two hundred years old. Tiny stitches sewn by someone’s careful hand were there among the worn and faded edges. The intricate paintings were beautiful too.
Just a thought, if it’s your first or second visit to a castle or palace, go! Do it all! Enjoy the richness and imagine the people who graced its rooms and what life might have been like at that time. If you’ve seen a few already, do go, but stick to the exterior, take photos of the gardens, admire the architecture and courtyards and simply read its history.
