Seven Plazas of Casco Viejo

Preface:  This excursion took place over a week ago on about January 17.  A few days later Covid finally caught up with us with Stan developing it first; mine kicked in a few days later.  Thankfully, the fridge and pantry was stocked.  We are quarantining and recovering fine. Since we were fully vaccinated and boosted our cases are fairly light. I need to add though. . . Covid in any variety is no fun.

We did it.  We found the seven plazas in Casco Viejo but the finding was not difficult.  The day’s heat was the challenge.  We had to take it slow and easy.  Most of the information I’m sharing about each plaza is directly from informational signs posted at each plaza.  The signs glean a little history of each square and recount the names – some of the Old Town plazas have multiple names.  Unlike many cities that were built from a carefully designed plan with commercial areas, residential areas and planned parks, most of the squares in Casco Viejo were formed after a fire destroyed the original buildings on the block.  Hey, why not let it remain vacant and call it a park?  Each however as it became an actual park or plaza commemorates a famous leader, liberator or founder.  I’ll try include personal impressions about each area and attempt to build a mind’s picture of each plaza’s own particular vibe .  .  . as each is very unique.

There are only a few entrances via street to Casco Viejo and it’s hard not to pass Plaza Santa Ana.  It is at the very entrance to old town from Avenida Central — that loud, lively, crowded market place I’ve mentioned so many times.  Nearby four other streets converge at its corner.  This park is hard to miss.

Plaza Santa Ana is named after the church, Iglesia de Santa Ana that stands regally on the back side of the plaza. The square has walks around and through the park that like bicycle spokes lead to a grand domed gazebo, possibly grandstand for musicians or speakers.  Stately trees shade park benches that are fully utilized by a population of fellows who appear to spend their entire day and probably most of their nights right there in the park.  It’s a gritty but pretty place.  We felt safe though we did not stay and sit a while.  In the late 1880’s, in its heyday, the area was a market place and a location for bull fights.   Bullfights?  Seems like a small place for that.  But in the late 1890’s the area became gentrified and was turned into a park with lovely restaurants and theaters.  The facades of some old theatres can still be found.  In the late 1930’s, the area boasted The French Bazaar, a well know department store built in distinct the art deco style. 

Today, the park is surrounded by carts selling juice and pastries, vegetable stands and cheap fondas.  One standout bordering Santa Ana is the Café Coca-Cola.  Built in 1875 it’s the oldest remaining restaurant in Panama and is the world’s only restaurant authorized to carry the Coca-Cola name.  Of course, there is a history to that.  Always ingenious marketers, Coca-Cola chose Panama as one of the first countries to bottle Coke outside the boundaries of North America; yes, just about the time the USA began bringing thousands of workers to the country to build the great canal. 

It’s more than just a long standing place to get a hearty breakfast or good local food – so we’ve been told.  Its significance is that it has withstood the test of time . . . The café was in place when Casco Viejo was a vibrant town in the late 1800’s.  It remained during the time the city became a deteriorated abandoned slum.  And now, revitalized, restored and probably the most famous tourist destination in Panama – except for the Panama Canal, Casco Viejo is a vibrant, cultural, prosperous location again – and the Coca Cola Café sits at its front door.

Just a few blocks away and in sharp contrast to Plaza Sana Ana is the beautiful Plaza Tomas Herrera.  It’s a place for the rich and famous.  The luxury hotel, the American Trade Hotel borders one side of the park and the very popular Casa Casco (best place in town for roof-top drinks at sunset) is on the opposite side.  Magnificent trees provide shade to the manicured square and umbrella covered tables line the sidewalks where an exquisite lunch or a fancy coffee can be enjoyed.

Like others the block now occupied by the park was once residential but suffered a fire and was subsequently rebuilt to honor Tomas Herrera, a military man during the time of Central American rebellions.   A grand statue of the general on horseback is showcased in the center of the park.  Herrera was the first president of the Free State of Isthmus – which existed only 13 months and later became part of Panama when it gained independence from Columbia. 

It’s a lovely place to have a gelato.

Although smaller that the grand squares, the third plaza is Plazoleta Carlos V.  It’s a tiny strip of green respite with park benches that is snuggled along the walk leading to the French Plaza.  Away from heavy pedestrian traffic and noisy, cars, one can find peace and quiet for reading or simply clearing the mind. 

Plaza de Francia, number four, is a place Stan and I have visited several times.  Naturally it honors the contributions made by the French and the 20,000 people who lost their lives during the initial construction efforts for the Canal.  The French Plaza sits in front of the French Embassy and looks out over the bay.  The top of an obelisk proudly bears a rooster, a widely used symbol of the people of France.  After climbing a few stairs, an elevated pavilion presents an unobstructed view of the bay and the Pan American Highway.  On the east side of the plaza, fancy shops and art studios occupy buildings that once were dungeons used by the Spaniards and Columbians .  Wow!  I love this stuff!

Onward!  Plazoleta Medio Baluarte is another small but impressive park that looks out over the bay back toward the city skyline.   It has a fountain and park benches for a nice rest or a lunchtime sandwich and spectacular view. 

Plaza six is Plaza Bolivar.  Again, created after a fire!  Originally it was called Plaza de San Francisco for the tall and imposing Church of Saint Francis Assisi that stands on its grounds.  The grand National Theatre is across the street.  Renamed in 1926, this plaza now features a statued monument paying homage to Simon Bolivar, a statesman described as “The Architect of Nations” and “Father of American Freedom.”  Not as fancy as Plaza Tomas Herrera, but certainly not as “public” as Plaza Santa Ana, this large plaza is busy.  Lots of people were passing through or simply enjoying a few minutes on the green.  The setting offers a chance to mingle with locals, have a meal at a table on the park or just sit tin a shaded spot to check Google maps one more time.  On our first visit to this plaza we met a very creative entrepreneur.  He greeted us in a friendly way and asked where we are from, how long we are going to be here, etc., etc.  He started telling us history and useful factoids.  We started getting the idea . . . an independent tour guide who chats for a donation!  We thanked him and gave him $5 for his time.  After all, he was nice and he did spend a little time with us.  We mistakenly thought he just liked us.  A few weeks later we saw him again heading our way!  We just said hi, told him we remember him and wished him well.

I’ve saved the best for the last.  Plaza Catedral or Plaza Mayor or Independence Square or even Plaza de Independencia as it can be called was once a place for horse races and bull fights. It is the only plaza that was actually planned.  Instead of the traditional square shape, however, this plaza is rectangle – due to the addition of space created by yet again, another fire. 

No one comes to Panama City without visiting this park.  Visitors stroll through with their cameras and newly purchased Panama hats.  It is the most important, most photographed plaza in the city.  

This grand plaza gives credit to those fought for Panama’s independence from both Spain and Columbia.  In the center is a stone gazebo from which sidewalks lead in starburst fashion to the walks that border the grounds.  Important buildings surround the park, such as Palacio Municipal and the Museo del Canal Interoceánico—an incredible museum where we learned so much about the Panama Canal and the Canal Zone.  However, the piece de resistance is the Metropolitan Cathedral de Panama.  It is grand!  It is magnificent!  It is the most revered and beautiful sight in all of Casco Viejo.  It is hard to take your eyes away from this magnificent sight.  Its historical importance is equally significant.  The declaration of emancipation of Panama from Spain on November 28, 1821 and the Separation of Panama from Colombia on January 3, 1903 were read on its steps.  It remains today a center piece of Panamanian culture, and history.

Oh no, maybe there are eight plazas – or maybe I included one in the first seven that does not count but there is another plaza,  Maybe because it sits just across the street from outer buildings of Casco Viejo, this one may not be considered part of the old town.  Plaza V (Quinto) Centenario does however mark the distinction between old town and new, modern Panama City.  This formal-type, more modern park marks 500 years since this Isthmus was first explored by Europeans.  It sits on the water and is just steps from the Presidential Palace. The view is broad and takes in the city’s silver skyline of beautiful tall buildings on the left and to the right, there is Old Town.  I’ve never been here at night but I imagine the view is breath-taking. 

Yes, mission accomplished.  We visited all the plazas in Old Town today.  But hot; were we hot?  It reaches almost 90 degrees in the afternoon here.  I’ve remarked in earlier stories that Panama’s summer season has arrived.  It’s also called the dry season and thankfully, it is called the windy season.  Quite often these days there is a refreshing breeze, it is just not often enough.  We were dragging! 

On days like today when we are both hot and tired, Stan loves it when I pipe up and say, “what’s next?”

Plaza de Santa Ana

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Plaza Tomas Herrera

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Plazoleta Carlos V

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Plaza de Francia

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Plaza Medio Baluarte

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Plaza Bolivar

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Lunch break at Diablico

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Plaza Catredral

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Number 8 – Plaza V (Quinto) Centenario

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