One of our favorite areas in Panama City is Casco Viejo, old town. Each time we’ve been there though we’ve had a mission . . . primarily meeting people for dinner. We’ve looked around a bit but not really spent a lot of time. We returned there this week to simply mill about and shop like typical tourists might do. The streets are narrow so one side of the street or the other is shaded nearly all the time. This adds to the ambiance of the walk — they will tell you they have only rainy season and dry season in Panama. Dry season is summer; humidity is reduced, but the sun is more direct and it is hot. Very hot. Still, the skies are a crystal clear blue with only a few fluffy white clouds. If one can stand the heat, it’s simply beautiful.
In old town, we popped in to souvenir shops, swanky boutiques, looked at Panamanian art, toured the magnificent church, Iglesia de San Francisco de Asís and simply sat on park benches and people-watched in some of the wonderful squares in the city. Small towns in USA usually have a town square; Casco Viejo has seven. Someday I might write a piece about nothing but the squares — I am sure there is plenty of story within those seven restful blocks of space We had already eaten lunch at the Mercado de Merisco so no food or drinks for us that day. We should have waited as both food and drink are much better in Casco Viejo.
We passed the entrance to the Palicio de la Garzas, the presidential palace but it’s heavily guarded and not inviting at all. Sure would like to see that place. It sits on an outer edge of Casco Viejo on a natural stone point that looks out to the Bay to the left and out to the Pacific to center and right. From what we can see, it looks fabulous. Maybe we can find a way to get a closer look.
Today we Ubered to Veracruz. We were not expecting a lot but it is a nearby beach. TripAdvisor and Viator do not place Veracruz high on their list of things to do but we heard hints that it’s a weekend favorite for locals and really good food can be found there. It is not that far from the city, maybe 10 miles but there is no public transportation. It is accessible only by car, taxi or uber – or those white private buses locals use we have yet to figure out. The route took us over the Bridge of the Americas and on. Along the way we passed the entrance to the Westin Playa Bonita – really not that important except we have seen its top silhouette on the horizon many times. It always stirred our curiosity. We thought it might be a hilltop observatory. Nope, it is just a fancy hotel whose designer preferred to top his buildings with round domes.
Our driver dropped off at the sandy village of Veracruz. It reminded me of photos I’ve seen of the early days of USA beach towns. There was a long and wide beach, a few tired-looking houses and cute but rustic beachside restaurants playing loud music. Mmmmmm!
The bay at Veracruz is filled with islands and when the tide is out, big rocks perfect for sunning poke out the mild surf. We entered the beach about midway of its length. In total it is probably a 1.5 mile crescent shaped beach. The sand is brown and coarse, easy to walk on. The water is clear but not blue like waters in the Caribbean – this is a bay on the Pacific. We waded out a few feet to feel the surf. It felt surprisingly warm. A line of tiny seashells carried to the shore bit by bit in the gentle surf whispered shhhhhhhh as they tumbled in the soft waves. From the shore there is a multitude of green islands which add beauty and interest to the view and over our shoulders is a range of mountains. We passed a few families on the beach as we walked. They all were friendly and waved. We waved back and we all said, “bueno” or later, “buena.” From almost any point in this area of Panama, ships are always on the horizon preparing to enter or leaving the canal. At one point while we were having lunch the sun hit the ships just right. Suddenly they lighted up. Instead of seeing gray blocks far out on the sea, colors of ships hulls and colors of stacked containers were clear and visible. The angle of the sun changes everything!!
We walked to the end of the beach and marveled at the intricate and artful designs left in the sand by crabs during their nightshift work. We saw red crabs scampering sideways from us or those still in their crab holes kicking out sand again in their sideways fashion.
After a long walk, we pulled out our towels and just sat a while. We watched clouds, talked about ships, our dreams, our girls and what we hope to do next. Stan remarked that our view here, looking out at the water and the islands, could have just as easily been the same view we had from the beach in Phuket or Rio. We admitted how much we will miss this place someday. Meanwhile two herons cautiously guarded a section of beach and nearby waters. Soon pelicans suspected their cache of fish and began to dive. The big birds made hay. They pulled their big gray bodies out of the water with strong and broad wings and flew up only a few feet to find their lunch, then pointed their beaks down as they spied their prey, then DIVE! They folded their wings and literally dropped in the water head down and beak first and came up gulping down their fish. Small birds followed their every move in search of scraps. This process was repeated over and over again. To me it was completely hypnotic!
The Veramar Restaurant looked inviting. The jefe met us as we walked in from the beach. We chose a mosaic tile topped table overlooking the sea of course. We both had camarones y ensalada. Mine was in spiced garlic sauce, Stan’s was fried. Both were cooked to perfection. We ordered te frio con mucho hielo — tea with lots of ice. It did not occur to me to ask sweet or unsweet. I forgot that Latinos love sugary drinks. Our drinks were served with lots of ice, YES! I was so hot and so thirsty! Whew! Was it sweet!!! Think Presweetened Lemon Nestea with extra added sugar!! But hey it was wet and cold!
It was a good day. We just may spend another one here in this little hidden beach town before our time here is gone.
Artful Crab Designs 
What a fun day at the beach! Enjoy every minute!
Thank you, Susie!! It was relaxing and very nice. Roads could be slick your way tonight. Take care driving to church tomorrow.
Now this day sounds like my kind of day! Not too much walking, enjoying the shops, the beach, and a lovely dinner! How lovely!
We had a slight snow event that the weathermen had made a big too over all week long. Ray and I looked out around 10pm last night to big beautiful flakes blowing around for it to be gone an hour later! They had predicted 4 inches. Hope!
Typical Arkansas snow!
I love and miss you guys!!
We were excited that you guys might get snow! But we saw the photos . . . maybe snow later this month???? Still, just watching snow fall is something restful and special. Love you so!! And hope Ray is feeling better.