Asuncion, Bit by Bit

With the week-long road trip behind us and still learning about Asuncion, we buckled down to see what else we could see and do in the city.   

Buses here are fondly called, killing machines.  They are not for the weak-hearted.  They run often, speed down the streets like on a racetrack, and stop only seconds for passengers to get on and off.  We took a bus downtown to walk the Costanera on the river’s bahia again to see if the scene was lively on a Saturday afternoon in warm weather.  When Stan and I are near water be it a lake, river, or the ocean, we tend to be happier, our steps are lighter; we breathe better and smile a little more too.  The day was cool when we walked the Costanera a few weeks ago, but on this second visit, even with a sunny sky and warm temps, it still was a rather quiet place.  A few people were canoeing; a few less were fishing, some kids were romping and stomping, and a family or two had a fire going for a barbecue picnic later on.    I thought, boy, I’d love to be invited to that party.   Paraguayans love to grill.  They grill any time, but Sunday is the big day for barbecue.  The whole family comes over and like a Brazilian Steak House, the man of the house grills a ton of meat, beef, pork, chicken, and chorizo. 

On the way from the bus stop to the Costanera, we found ourselves at the door of the modern, modest Centro Cultural de la Cuidad.  Now, had we considered visiting that museum as an outing, we both probably might have put it low on the list of things to do.  A man passing us as he exited the center told us we should visit it. So we did.  This small but impressive place reflects Asuncion’s city pride.  Inside, it features two period houses and a collection of art, drawings, and artifacts that portray the history and development of Asuncion, Manzana de la Rivera, (Apple from the River), from its beginning in the 1500s. 

After the bay, we walked toward the city passing the striking Placio de los Lopez.  I cannot say enough about this place.  Like our country’s Capitol Building, it is the workplace of the president of Paraguay.  The neoclassical manor is by far, the most beautiful and imposing building in the city.  It commands attention.  Nearby and almost on the Palace grounds is the tiny Plaza de los Desparecidos, Square of the Disappeared, where the poignant “contra-monument” stands.  This moving monument created by famous Paraguay artist and architect, Carlos Colombino, shows two heavy blocks crushing the broken statute of Alfredo Stroessner.  It represents the memory of an anti-hero and the decline and end of dictatorship in Paraguay in which the last ruler, Stroessner, authorized state-sponsored torture, killing, or disappearance of over 3500 Paraguayans.   The monument stands for all to see today and remember, including current politicians. 

As our walk continued through this historic part of town, the Plaza de Armas is the oldest and square in the country.   It was an important place where cultural and political celebrations took place and a family gathering spot on the banks of the river’s bay.  Shamedly and inexcusably, this once proud space graced with meaningful historical monuments is now a dried-up, broken, unkept, dirty eyesore.  It is heartbreaking. 

The Municipal Theatre Ignacio A. Pane was nearby.  This modest hall stands in its original spot in the historic part of town and still hosts performances today.  We wanted to see inside this jewel from 1855 but it was closed.   Spotting an open door on the side of the building we popped in. Instead of entering the theatre, we found ourselves in the fancy attached restaurant, Cafe del Teatro. We weren’t especially hungry but we played it like the smooth characters we’d like to be and took a table.  The clientele was young and avante-garde.  After muddling through the Spanish menu describing Italian food, we shared a beer and a bowl of ravioli.   I could see the chef cooking in the loft above us; he looked like a young Johnny Depp.  It is funny to me that somehow simple plans often yield the best days; lunch was tasty and just enough, we saw “Johnny Depp” (our chef looked like a young Mr. Depp,) and we got to watch a bit of a rehearsal in the theatre.  

On another day, digging deeper into things one must see in Asuncion, we made a trek to Loma San Jeronimo.  Once we got to it, it was just as described:  a very old colorful neighborhood with brightly painted houses, artistic murals, cats everywhere, and the Escalinata San Jeronimo, a pretty outdoor staircase designed by Lauri Godi.  Individually decorated in mosaic tiles, the 45 steps artfully visualize the earth, the water, local houses, and the sky.    Loma San Jeronimo may be the best original and colorful neighborhood we have found here. To get there, however, we had to walk through some pretty sketchy neighborhoods, a guy sleeping on the street, a lot of dirt, broken sidewalks, stinky pee-stained walls, and had to dodge dog and who knows what sorts of poop.  Come on Asuncion, being poor does not mean you no longer have to be civilized. 

Not all of Asuncion is nasty and rag-tag. Much of it is but it also has some very wealthy, old- and new-money neighborhoods, commercial centers, countless tall bank buildings, fine hospitals, schools, and first-class shopping. I’m puzzled as to why there is no investment in its historic old town and nearby neighborhoods. I’m baffled. They could take a tip from Panama City, Panama. There, the Casco Viejo (old town) has been restored, plazas and historic buildings rebuilt in authentic original style. It now is the sought-after place to visit, drink, dine, and stay in the finest hotels.

Here’s a good part.  Online, we found a church not too far from our neighborhood where the service is in English.  We ordered UBER and went there on Sunday morning.  The service was held in a brick, tiny-house chapel—it is so little!!!  But oh boy, we found so much love there.  The white-haired pastor and his wife are older than us, have been married longer if that can be imagined, and have spent their lives in Christian ministry.

The little chapel was full of old and young people from England, South Africa, Paraguay, and the USA.  Some are raising young families, others are just starting early careers at places like international schools and the US Embassy, and some like us are retired and exploring the world.  The pastor’s delivery was disarming and enchanting.  His down-to-earth sermon was based on the verses of Kings 19 about Elijah who holed himself up in a cave, giving up and thinking he’d done his best but was the only one of the Lord’s prophets left.  The pastor put this confusing Biblical text in an easy-to-understand story.  The primary message is that sometimes we might think we are alone with our problems and guilt.  We often isolate ourselves in our sadness or frustration.  But isolation is a killer.  Find a loving friend or relative who will tell you the truth and remind you that you are never alone.   

Stan and I are happy to have found this quaint, tiny-house-chapel and the people who worship there.  It will be our home church while we are in Paraguay.