The Lady In The Red Coat

Post 37 – The Lady In The Red Coat

I’m not saying we discovered Poland first, but it is no wonder we have enjoyed every minute here.  See the recent article. 

Why This Country Is Becoming Europe’s Next Tourist Hotspot

Each city we have visited has a well-preserved or restored old town but once outside the walls of that t area, most Polish cities look very much like modern cities anywhere.  It is summertime and a major holiday just occurred, so Krakow is filled with tourists.  It is difficult to identify working people because the tourist crowds are so prevalent.  I am in love with their bus, metro and intercity train systems.  It works.  Our daughter, Cody, was here about ten years ago and she remembers old trains from the 70’s.  Something happened between then and now because the transportation system is superb.  On a train from Tarnow yesterday, we averaged 151 km per hour between towns.  That’s fast.  Boy, could we use something like this in the USA!

Learning about Auschwitz is why we came here.  We wanted to learn.  Everyone should.  Everyone must.  But there is a wealth of wonderful things here.  Here are highlights of our interesting and fun visits.

Wieliczka Salt Mine

On the 90-minute drive to Auschwitz, the camp of horror, we toured stopped at one of the most visited places in Poland, the Wieliczka Salt Mine.  It is one of the first two UNESCO Heritage sites named in Poland.   Before you wonder why visit another salt mine, it is important to know that once mankind learned about preserving food with salt, salt became a valuable commodity.  It was good for seasoning food, of course, but it was invaluable in preventing starvation when fresh meat could not be had.  Because salt was critical for preserving meat and fish it became a form of currency.  Early people first obtained salt by collecting briny water in saltwater springs that pumped up from the ground.  The water was boiled and evaporated; the remaining crystals were left to dry.  When pools of saltwater springs finally were no more, people began to dig salt wells and ultimately found veins of the mineral that could be mined.

The excavation on this salt mine began in the 13^th century and continued here until 1996 when falling salt prices made mining no longer feasible.  In its seven centuries of operation, a network of tunnels and chambers were created that covers a footprint comparable to the size of the city of Krakow.  A maze of  240 tunnels on 9 levels go as deep as 1072 feet underground.  The mine was a source of great wealth to Krakow.  It financed many things including the great Wawel Castle. 

Because the miners wanted a place to pray three hundred years ago they started carving salt chapels and memorials to Christ throughout the mine to give homage and praise to the faith that kept miners alive.  Before artificial ventilation, the earliest carvings no longer have sharp features; having been eroded by moisture in the chambers, but more recent ones are crisp, detailed works of art in salt.

Besides its great size and centuries of continuous mining operation, one of the most remarkable aspects, is the gigantic wooden mechanics built to dig and transport 2-ton giant chunks of salt.  Over the centuries, giant wooden pulleys, cranks and other complex machines powered by men and later by horses, were employed to extract the salt and bring it to the surface.

The Mounds

Now these mounds of dirt are intriguing.  We have never seen these before but apparently earthen mounds were built throughout Europe.  Some go back as far as prehistoric times for burial sites, rituals, defense, and as watch points. There are four in Krakow. More recently, like in the 1800s the mound we visited was built to honor a great military leader, Tadeusz Kościuszko.    Stan and I had never heard of this man.  In his younger years he had great unfulfilled military aspirations in Poland.  Finding no success, he finally focused on engineering schooling in Paris.  When the Revolutionary War broke out, he went to America to volunteer as an engineer. This man designed West Point.  It was like any military fortress ever built.  He was appointed Colonel.  Finally, he was recognized as a national hero in Poland, Lithuania, Belarus, and the United States,

Krakow built a mound in his horon in 1823.  Our walk to this mound was long and uphill and when we arrived, the day’s heat was at its fullest.  We stopped for a snack and then walked up the circular path to the top of the mound.  There was no guard wall, no hand rail.  If one took a mis-step, the fall would be life-changing.  Mothers kept a good virtual leash on their young ones.  At the top, the glorious view was worth every step.

Hot Dogs

Here’s a good one. Food here is delightful, heavy but truly delicious, like a grandmother might make. But sometimes we need just a simple meal. A huge chain of Zabka convenience stores are found all over this town. Their brilliant green signs make them very easy to spot. There are two stores on the perimeter of our apartment complex. They are busy all day long selling basics. They make a wonderful hot dog, at least as good as a $1.50 Costco hot dog and about the same price. Almost everyone who goes in a Zabka store comes out with one of these wonders. The wieners lie roasting on a rolling hot grill; meanwhile once an order is placed, a clerk toasts a round closed bottom cylinder of bread only ¼” thick on a hot grill. When all is ready, the clerk squirts an ample serving of mustard, jalapeno dressing, mayo or whatever you choose into the cylinder, then in goes the hot and juicy hot dog.. We always order the big ones and we have had two so far.

The Botanical Garden

Like most planned European cities, Kraków is blessed with ample treed green space. Quite likely the spaces that are now parks were something else in Medieval days, probably smaller marketplaces or even a moat.  One such park is the unique Planty Park that encircles old town. It’s green, planted with now massive trees, and has a white paved path.  The path was once the moat around the city but the Austria filed it in during the time they occupied Krakow.  It’s one of the most pleasant places to walk in Kraków. But there are many more lovely parks all over the city.  And they are used.  People love to get outside and enjoy them. We spent one afternoon at the botanical garden, founded in 1783 is part of the Botanical School of Jagiellonian University.   Nearly every plant was identified with its scientific name and the common name in Polish. The walk was beautiful and just right for a relaxed afternoon.

The Ojcow National Park

It is the smallest national park in Poland, but the aura of Ojcow National Park is that it is only a short city bus ride away. Nature loving city folk find it a nearby escape. There are wide paved hiking paths with side shoot dirt paths for astoundingly beautiful woodsy explorations. Well into the park and at the top of a rocky bluff stands the Pieskowa Skala Castle; even more interesting are the ruins of the medieval castles in this smallish park. At the bottom of the valley, visitors can relax and maybe enjoy a home-packed picnic lunch while the kids romp in and out of the nearby cave opening. Cyclers can stop to buy an ice cream cone or even a huge swirl of cotton candy. On the day we visited, people were out in droves, enjoying the hikes, cycling to the castle, letting the kids run wild and exercising the dogs. The park is famous for its gigantic boulders, two or three stories high, that have stood here since the beginning of time. It thrilled me just to lay my hands on these monoliths of time.

We got our walk done that day, well over 7 miles to and from buses and up and down and all around the wonderful park.

Krakow’s Cat Café

Tessa showed us pictures of the kitty café and the puppy café in Seoul. We didn’t get to visit one on our recent visit with her. However, there is a cat café here.  After visiting the botanical garden we made a quick run there. I couldn’t wait to pet those kitties and watch their antics. Must have been the wrong time of day. We saw three cats, but none were interested in being petted. They just wanted to sleep.  Too bad because we do love kitties, but we also dearly love dogs.  We get to see lots of dogs in our apartment complex and they all love to be petted!  The cutest little black French bulldog literally saw us coming the other evening.  He wiggled and giggled!  He could not wait for his belly-rubs he instinctively knew he would get from us.  Speaking of cuteness, we think a population boom going on in Poland. We have never ever seen so many infants and pregnant mamas.   Quite often in the early evening, we sit out on our terrace and just watch life go by below us.  One after another new parents walk past pushing strollers.  Some are tots but most babies are young, just infants, likely the results of a cold December just past.  We have never seen so many.  How hopeful!!!

Church

Most European cities have churches with services in English. Kraków has three; we have visited two. Each is run by missionaries on long-term assignment here and has multi-national congregations. The church we attended here most has services in English and Polish. Each song is sung in English, and then it was sung again in Polish. When the pastor preached after he made a statement the interpreter related his words in Polish.  The service was quite long. It began at 11 AM and ended at about 1 pm.  Whew!  Still, the message was good. The pastor had a unique sense of humor which made his sermon not only soulful and thought-provoking but also very entertaining. Being in church is important.

Tarnow

On our first day trip from Krakow, we boarded a train to Tarnow.  This town is said to resemble Kraków in miniature and with fewer crowds.  Getting there was a bit confounding.  We just missed the first train but bought tickets for the next and waited.  When it arrived, we jumped on.   The conductor said “Not this train.” And virtually kicked us off.  It was the right train.  Maybe it was oversold.  Maybe he was having a bad day.  I don’t know.  But Stan and I never, ever give up.  We waited another entire hour to catch what now was the noon train.  We knew we would not have much time in Tarnow but somehow we managed to see the top sights, have a nice lunch, and board the correct train back to town.  This Medieval town was untouched during the war, making it an almost walk-through museum. It has the requisite main market square in the center of town, lined with restaurants and shops, and a lovely tall cathedral but its real claim to fame is the wooden churches that date back to the 1200s. 

Prior to the war, 20,000 Jews lived peacefully in the small town of Tarnow. Today there are none. During the Holocaust, they all escaped, died, or were sent to gas chambers.

Krakow’s Wawel Castle

The castle complex is comprised of a cathedral, the castle, the plaza, and the gardens.  Each element, including various floors and areas in the castle require a separate ticket.  In all, a person wishing to see everything would need eleven tickets Hmm.  We saw the cathedral, the private apartment rooms, and the gardens.  When Germany occupied Poland, they claimed Krakow and made it the capital of their General Government  The commander in charge of the General Government was Hans Frank. He took over the castle and made it a private residence for himself and his wife.

The Underground Museum

Under Rynek Glowny, the main market square in Krakow, lies the market square from the 1200’s.  During excavation and the archeological dig, some ancient walls were found still standing, remnants of great fires were found and an enormous cemetery that extends outside the main market square was discovered.  So far 177 graves have been carefully uncovered containing over 200 bodies.  Newborns and children were sometimes buried with their mothers in wooden coffins or simple shrouds each according to Christian beliefs with the head at the west, facing east.  Vile people, criminals, insane people, or people who were different . . . left-handed, single brow, etc., were feared as heaven outcasts who might become vampires.  They were buried not with arms at their sides or crossed on the chest as was the Christian tradition but in the fetal position with the head decapitated.

Stan and I thought this museum might be a nice hour-long escape from the glaring heat going on outside.  It was but it was so much more.  We became utterly immersed and felt as if we had completed a college-level history course by the time our three-hour exploration was done.

The Lady in the Red Coat

I usually find joy in most people I meet.  But I need to get this off my chest.  On our bus tour to the Salt Mine and Auschwitz/Birkenau, a lady sat across the aisle from me.  She was wearing a red coat.  At first I thought how nice it is to have her and her red coat in our group.  If we got mixed with other groups or lost sight of our guide, we could always find the lady in the red coat.

I was hardly seated when she reminded me to buckle my seat belt.  As I buckled, I said hello, thank you, and asked her where she was from.  She answered, “Southern Ireland.”   

“Oh” I said, “we enjoyed Ireland so much and have toured most of your island.  Do you live near Cork?” 

She said “No.” 

I still don’t know where she is from. 

We were sitting at the front of the bus. Her row was just behind the driver and our seats were on the other side of the aisle. The driver was young and eager to tell us about his homeland. His English was spot-on. He shared information about places we were passing and tried to answer our questions. But the lady in the red coat kept interrupting him and trying to finish his sentences. I wanted to say, “Will you please just let him talk?” But I did not.

When we left the bus, she reminded me to zip my purse. Dang, I was still in the midst of putting my stuff away. Then she pointed out to a man that he’d just dropped his glasses. They had hardly hit the ground. I have to admit, she had a keen eye and was quick to help. She was just a regular Miss Helpful. . . .

At each venue, she positioned herself in the very front of our group and continued interrupting the guides and finishing their sentences. She could not stop herself.  She was an expert on nearly every topic and wanted us all to know.  Her interjections made a jumble of the conversation; we could barely understand either one of them.

I looked for a way to remove myself from her company. But over and over again, I found her at my side. As we walked the grounds, she and I discussed the horror and tragedy at Auschwitz. She added, “Hitler was a psychopath, you know.” Then she began describing psychopathic personalities. “You know, psychopaths are usually those who bungee jump or do other life-endangering activities.” . . . Shoot, I thought, I have jumped off a mountain in Columbia paragliding . . . tandem with a jumpmaster, of course. But it made me stop to consider, is it possible?

Back on the bus, there she was, sitting right across the aisle from me as we rode through the countryside.  “It is interesting,” she commented, “how they plant things in strips here . . .a few rows of corn, then a strip of barley, then oats.  But I guess it doesn’t matter since it’s all corn.” 

“I’m sorry,” I said, “I don’t understand.”    

“It’s like in the United States,” she explained, “the crops are all corn.  I mean the tall green stuff is corn-on-the-cob but together, it’s all corn.”

I almost choked! I laughed and said the obvious, “In the US and in all parts of the world, corn is corn, barley is barley and oats are oats.  The three are considered grains but collectively they are not corn.”   To clarify, I explained what she calls corn on the cob is simply immature corn that people harvest and consume fresh on- or off-the-cob.  When allowed to mature in the field and become dry, the corn kernels are used for livestock feed . . . or cornmeal.” 

She said, “Yes, and corn oil too, that deadly stuff.” 

On that we agreed.

Geesh! I don’t know why this person bothered me so. She just did.

And no, I did not take her photo.